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CHAPTER FOUR Tips on Dog Housing

Probably the most important features of a dog house is that it be the correct size for your dog.

If the house is not big enough, it'll be uncomfortable and your pet won't want to stay inside it. If the house is too big, it'll be more difficult for your dog to maintain body heat so as to stay comfortable and warm. Additionally, canines feel safer in a snug-fitting house.

So, I hear you ask: how can you figure out the correct size for a dog house?

Well, there are certainly multiple answers to that relatively simple question, dependent upon whom you ask. The "normal" response is that a dog house must be big enough to allow the dog to stand up, turnaround and lie down easily indoors. This principle is backed up by The Humane Society of the United States in addition to a variety of other animal organizations.

Research is still the best way to fully answer this question. Check out with control center, a number of pet clinics, along with a dog trainer at a pet boarding center. They all have concrete ideas and specific guideline for properly sizing up a dog house. You'll also come across a number of websites for vets, humane societies, and dog house suppliers using this "stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably" principle.

There's only one issue with this principle: it presumes you can bodily test out the dog house with your pet. If you are purchasing a dog house online, you'll have difficulties with this one.

The good news is there are a variety of sizing formulas for figuring out the suggested dimensions of a dog house given the size of your pet. However, since there is no single "golden rule" sizing formula, you need to choose which formula or variance of a formula matches your needs. As you will see, the formulations are all comparable but a bit different.

Some dog house suppliers offer sizing formulas for their specific items. In cases like this, it's a straightforward case to identify a dog house that suits. If the vendor doesn't offer decent sizing guidance or you're intending to build a dog house on your own, then your work is a bit more involved.

Tips for Buildins a Dos House

The dimension of your dog’s house is extremely important. This has been reiterated throughout this eBook. With regards to our own homes, most people tend to think that bigger is better. But folks also have way to heat their homes, which isn’t the situation for a dog house. If you build one that’s too big, your dog’s body heat won’t be enough to stay warm inside.

Off the Ground

It’s vital that you create a basic foundation to elevate the dog house off the ground a few inches. Even basic concrete blocks are sufficient to do this trick. This achieves a couple of essential things. First, it'll keep your dog from direct contact with the ground, particularly significant during winter weather. Second, it'll permit water runoff, preventing rain from flooding the dog house. And much better air flow will help keep the dog house dry, thus avoiding the wood from rotting.

Weather-Proof

The climate where you reside will determine just how much work you will have to do to weather resistant your dog house. For instance, a slanted or peaked roof prevents snow from amassing; however, if you live in a perpetual summer climate, this isn't always a concern.

Rain, cold and wind must be considered. Use roof felt or shingles to protect the roof. Incorporate a flap and/or an overhang for the door so that the elements out. If you get a lot of rain, use a waterproofing agent on the wood of the dog house. And needless to say, ensure there are tight seams everywhere so the dog house doesn't leak.

Must be Warmed-Up

You want your pet to be comfy in his house, meaning making sure it’s cozy and warm. There’s more that you can do to make sure comfort and warmth other than weather proofing. Put some bedding that your dog will relish. You may use a regular dog bed or blankets, although these may not operate well to climate conditions.

Other choices may be both cheaper and more long lasting, like car mats, scraps of carpet or plastic carpet runners. For a more outdoorsy vibe, you can cover the floor of the house with hay or cedar chips, which may be cleaned out and swapped out easily and at any moment. If you reside in a particularly freezing climate, you may look at a heating light bulb and insulation, as long as they are set up properly.

Keeping it Cool

Maintaining your dog house cool in warm weather is equally as essential as keeping it warm in cold weather. Keep in mind that the house itself doesn't provide enough respite from the heat. Placing the house in a shady spot is the simplest step you'll be able to take to keep it cool. In summer, you can set-up a small kiddy pool near the dog house so your pet can take a dip to cool off. When you’re building the house, add some ventilation to let air flow. You may also drill small holes in the walls underneath the roof.

Transportability

Making your dog house transportable will go quite a distance keeping in mind it as safe and comfortable as possible constantly, specifically if you live in a place where the climate deviates a good deal all year round. Mobility will help you to adjust your dog house’s location based on sunlight, shade, and the angles of your yard.

After you’ve finished constructing your dog house, scrutinize it very carefully for any safety dangers. Ensure there are no exposed nail points or other sharp surfaces that can injure your dog. Make certain that structure of the dog house is sound and look for anything that could result in harm. Above all, remember that as safe, sound, comfortable and weather proofed as you may have made your dog house, it's not as safe, sound, comfortable or weather proof as your house, so don’t leave your pet alone outside in the dog house for long durations.

Family Affair

For those who have a family, consider making the constructing of your dog house a household project. Presumptively, your dog is a family dog, so its house must be a family dog house. Designate tasks to everyone according to their personal skill levels and safety needs.

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CHAPTER FOUR Training Juvenile and Adult Dogs

The key to owning a well-trained dog is to start off on the right track when he is a puppy. If you have an adult dog, however, who has not been trained or whose manners leave something to be desired, then he needs to be taught the basic areas of obedience. This chapter explains how you can train your adult dog in the basics of good manners, from walking to heel on the leash to sitting, staying and behaving well in the house. Some people take these things for granted, expecting a dog to be aware what is needed of him, but that isn’t the case. He has to get to know your way of doings things, while you have to get to know him and what makes him tick.

Leash Trainins

Walking on a leash without pulling is an important skill for most pet dogs.

Even dogs with fenced-in yards occasionally go for leash walks and at the very least go to the vet each year. Many pet owners adopt adult dogs or older juvenile dogs from rescue and humane organizations, and these dogs often lack leash training or may have developed poor habits, including leash biting, pulling, and jumping. We now address the concepts and control tools for basic training of adult dogs. Leash training adult dogs is in accordance with the same concepts as training them to obey the sit, down, and stay routines. Adult dogs should be started on the leash as if they were pups without any training.

Reward

To reward a dog for proper behavior, it is advisable to determine an adequately encouraging reward. These include food, a ball, or a squeaky toy. Although praise from the owner can be paired with a stronger reinforcer (like food) to eventually lessen the need to carry food, praise alone, particularly when the dog and owner have no preceding relationship and the dog is learning new things, is not a sufficiently enticing prize.

Furthermore, while food is a potent reinforcer for most dogs, some will respond only to highly tasty rewards, like freshly cooked chicken.

Collars

Once an effective reward has been discovered, it's time to pick the correct tool for control (ex. collar, leash) for the dog. In most cases, head collars offer the most reliable and humane control of dogs on leash. Most dogs can be trained to accept the head collar by use of positive reinforcement and short training sessions. Though individual dogs may appear bothered temporarily, there's no factor in the physiologic stress response in dogs wearing a head collar as opposed to those wearing a buckle collar. Head collars may not be suggested or applicable for every dog. Owners who jog or bike with their dogs in summer should steer clear of their use because they may prohibit panting.

For individual dogs that withstand the collar, "no-pull" harnesses may be useful. Like head collars, these devices work by creating mild discomfort when the dog pulls. Traditional harnesses commonly are not suitable for dogs bigger than the toy breeds, which don't pull as strenuously as larger dogs. Training a dog with a traditional harness can be done, but it provides more challenges than the other control.

Training or "choke" collars are typically not suggested for a number of reasons. First, they're generally used inaccurately by pet owners who lack the skill and timing to utilize them efficiently. Second and more critical, badly fitted choke collars sit at mid-neck and can lead to tracheal compression and coughing devoid of inhibiting pulling. In comparison, head collars and "no-pull" harnesses don't require a lot of skill or outstanding timing. They simply act as "power steering" and are relatively simple, efficient tools for the average pet owner.

Leads

The leash that the owner chooses isn't as essential as the collar, harness, or reward. However, owners who are teaching a dog to walk on a lead without pulling should steer clear of retractable leads. Although these can be fantastic for trained dogs, they can be counterproductive in beginners simply because, by their design, they promote and reward pulling. In addition, all of the devices listed above tighten up with the pressure of a retracting leash, which in effect "corrects" the dog continually even if he's walking relatively close to the owner: when an "unlocked" retractable lead is utilized with a head halter or some of the devices already stated, the dog will encounter discomfort when in the correct position and when pulling. This will confound the dog and prevent learning.

Techniques

It is crucial during the early stages of training to prevent inadvertently rewarding the dog when he pulls. When the dog pulls, you should stop moving, get the dog's attention, and then reward him (for attending to you). Additionally, whenever the dog is walking quietly next to you or isn't pulling, he should be compensated, perhaps by being petted or allowed to play. Well-meaning pet owners often forget to reward appropriate behavior.

Positive reinforcement is a vital component of training: It serves to boost the strength of the dog's response plus the likelihood that he will continue to be encouraged to walk in the correct position. Whenever dogs are told what is "wrong," they must then be informed what is "right" so that they realize what is expected.

Recall

Teaching your dog to come to you when you call him, commonly called as recall, is the key lesson you can teach him. A dog who responds promptly and consistently when you call him can enjoy liberties that other canines can't. He can play in the dog park, hike with you in off-leash parks and keep out of trouble in many situations. Even if you never plan to have your dog off his leash, unexpected things happen. Collars break, leashes slip, gates or doors are unintentionally left open. When any sort of accident happens, having a reliable recall may well save your dog’s life.

Teaching a dog to dependably come when he's called isn't necessarily easy, though. Some canines do seem more naturally willing to come when called. Usually these are inferior dogs who never want to wander far from you, or they’re dogs that are so encouraged by your attention that they find coming to you really rewarding. The majority of dogs, however, must be taught to come when called. Even though you might take more time teaching this behavior than any other, the huge benefits make it worth the investment.

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CHAPTER FIVE Common Questions

My doe is bark ins excessively - what can I do?

Dogs bark excessively for numerous reasons including boredom, excitement, distress, territorial defense and fear and anxiety. Therefore the solutions to problem barking differ from one dog to the next.

In the first instance, it’s highly recommended that you talk to your vet who can refer you to a veterinary behavioral specialist. Vet behavioralist can help to determine the underlying cause of the barking and then develop a tailor-made treatment plan for your dog.

Treatment usually involves behavioral modification training. In some rare cases the use of veterinary medications in combination with behavioral modification may be required. Behavior specialists tend to ask owners a lot of questions and may offer to come out to the house to observe your dog in its own environment in order to identify barking Triggers’. Triggers may include seeing or hearing a person walking past or the neighbors dog.

Training should be based on the principles of positive reinforcement. That is, reward ‘good’ behavior - when the dog is quiet give him food treat or a pat on the head and avoid rewarding ‘unwanted’ behavior - when the dog barks ignore the behavior. Training should not involve punishment which tends to exacerbate the barking problem.

My neighbor’s doe is constantly barking and disturbing me. What can I do?

Usually, problems with barking dogs can be resolved without resorting to police or courts. If you do eventually wind up in court, however, a judge will be more sympathetic if you first made at least some effort to work things out informally. Here are the steps to take when you're losing patience (or sleep) over a neighbor's noisy dog:

Ask your neighbor to keep the dog quiet. Sometimes owners are blissfully unaware that there's a problem. If the dog barks for hours every day — but only when it's left alone -- the owner may not know that you’re being driven crazy.

If you can establish some rapport with the neighbor, try to agree on specific actions to alleviate the problem. After you agree on a plan, set a date to talk again in a couple of weeks.

Try mediation. Mediators are trained to listen to both sides, identify problems, keep everyone focused on the real issues, and suggest compromises. A mediator won't make a decision for you, but will help you and your neighbor agree on a resolution. Many cities have community mediation groups which train volunteers to mediate disputes in their own neighborhoods.

Look up the law. In some places, barking dogs are covered by a specific state or local ordinance. If there's no law aimed specifically at dogs, a general nuisance or noise ordinance makes the owner responsible. And someone who allows a dog to bark after numerous warnings from police may be arrested for disturbing the peace.

Call the police, if you think a criminal law is being violated. Summoning a police cruiser to a neighbor's house obviously will not improve your already-strained relations. But if nothing else works, and the relationship with your neighbor is shot anyway, give the police a try.

Should I use an anti-barkins collar to treat my dog’s bar kins problem?

There are some products on the market that are aimed at preventing dogs from barking such as sound collars - emit a high-pitched sound when the dog barks-, electronic collars - deliver an electric shock to the dog when it barks - and citronella collars - spray the dog’s face with citronella scent when it barks.

Majority of vets and professionals DON’T recommend the use of these devices to stop your dog barking for a number of reasons:

This type of training is called 'punishment' as the dog is effectively punished by the collar for every bark. Punishment, as a method of training, is often ineffective as dogs often do not associate the punishment (the citronella spray, sound or shock) with the behavior.

This type of behavioral modification does not tend to be successful because it fails to address the underlying cause of the behavior. Dogs bark for many reasons: play, fear, separation anxiety, environmental factors, and boredom. These devices will not necessarily solve the underlying cause of the barking and will only temporarily mask the problem.

Sometimes it is appropriate for dogs to bark (e g. as a means of communication) in which case the collar punishes them for normal behavior. Because the collar does not discriminate between problem barking and normal canine behavior, there is a potential for abuse if the collar is routinely left on for too long.

The treatment of nuisance behaviors such as excessive barking should begin by attempting to address the root cause of the problem. It is a good idea to see a veterinarian or animal behavioralist to assess nuisance behavior and provide advice on how best to address it.

What can / do if my dog has separation anxiety?

Dogs are highly social "pack" animals that prefer to live in groups. Separation anxiety is a common behavioral problem that occurs when the dog is separated from their "pack" which is usually represented by the owner/s. Separation anxiety is characterized by signs of distress when affected animals are separated from an owner or family group to which the animal is highly attached. Behavioral responses may include destructiveness, housesoiling, excessive barking, digging or pacing, among other signs.

The goal of treatment is to teach the pet how to be calm and relaxed during the owner's absence. It involves changes in pet-owner interactions, changes in leaving and return protocols, decreasing the anxiety associated with owner departure, teaching the pet how to be left alone, environmental changes and management.

Owners should consult their veterinarian for advice. They can either help you directly or they may offer referral to a veterinary behavioral specialist.

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Creating your own information product means being an entrepreneur. But the task of an entrepreneur does not stop only at content creation. In order to sell the products successfully, the person has to take up a number of other responsibilities too like marketing and promotion. Hence, it often becomes difficult for the entrepreneur to focus on the product creation, thereby leading to the decision of outsourcing it. Whether you should outsource your product creation or not depends on a number of factors. You have to choose an arrangement most conducive to your needs. Given below is a comparison of the benefits of each method.

The benefits of creating the product yourself

The best information products show people your own personal knowledge. When you create the product yourself, that unique viewpoint of yours will shine through, making the product a good one. If you outsource it, you may end up getting a generic product, as an outsider will follow a formula and create a product. The lack of your unique perspective will fail to make the product stand apart. This is why it is recommended that when it comes to information product, the entrepreneur is often better off creating it himself, as he is the best person to know about his product. This also leaves a bigger profit margin for him, as he will not have to pay for outsourcing.

Outsourcing your product creation does have its fair share of benefits too. First of all, it takes the pressure of creating the product off. Since the information product itself is one of the most important factors for your success, it is good to hire an expert for a limited time frame to create the product for you.

Outsourcing the task of product creation also leaves you with enough free time. This means you can start focussing on other aspects of your internet business. Outsourcing also helps you get in touch with industry experts and you get a number of unique ideas, which you may not have managed to get on your own.

Why you should consider working with a partner on an information product

The process of creating and selling an information products may sound easy on paper, but it does take its fair share of hard work. Some people do have the expertise and persistence and can go through the work of creating their information product on their own. But, there are many who are not that great at alone work, and would benefit better with shared responsibilities. In circumstances like this, having a business partner on producing an information product could prove to be extremely helpful. This is not even an uncommon occurrence. There are numerous such internet businesses where the information products are created and marketed by business partners, rather than just on individual.
Knowledge and skills double

When two brains are at work, in place of one, the result is sure to be better. With a business partner, you get to brainstorm more on possible information products. If you are on your own, you hardly get much scope of checking your ideas with someone else. But with a business partner, there are better chances of checking and bettering your ideas with someone else. When there is another person involved, you also get a different viewpoint, which in turn helps in making the product unique.

Working with a business partner on an information product means that you can create a more dynamic and diverse product. With the present information product market being so crowded, it helps to have such a dynamic product. The product stands out and hence sells well. Two minds at work is definitely a good option.

Responsibilities are better taken care of

When it comes to information products, the work does not end with just creating the product. Creating the product is without doubt the first step. But in order to earn the money, one also has to market the product enough to grab attention and increase its sales. Such promotional work may often become difficult if you are the sole person responsible for the information product. On the other hand, when you have a business partner, you can easily divide responsibilities on the marketing and promotion front. You can hatch better marketing ideas together and can divide the work.

This will help to ensure successful marketing efforts and also a wider area of influence.

How can I add value to my information products?

So you have managed to zero in on a hot topic. You have created a very good information product and cannot wait to watch it fly off the rack. But somehow, that does not seem to happen. What went wrong?

The key lies in the eyes of the consumer. Your information product may be the best thing out there. But, if your consumer does not perceive it to be the best, then it just will not sell. Hence, you can see that the task here is not only to create the product, but also to add real as well as perceived values to the product, which would make it tempting enough for the consumer. Given below are ways in which you can add such value to your information product and make it a hit.

Adding real and perceived value to your information product

Adding perceived value means doing something that would make your consumer think highly of your product and ultimately buy it. Increasing the perceived value is important as for consumers everything is about their perception of a product. The market place is filled with numerous similar looking products, many of which overpromise and under-deliver. Such experiences leave the consumers sceptical. So, what you need to do is make them believe that your product will be a value for money deal (which of course it will be.)

The good news is that it's easy to increase real and perceived value without it involving tons of additional work...

Let's say you've created a 10 part video course. An easy way to add value to it would be to have these videos transcribed into text (this can be very cheaply outsourced) and then you could include the written version together with the videos. This adds massive value because often people will watch the videos and then wish that they had a written version to refer back to later on without having to keep re-watching the videos.

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CHAPTER FOUR Eliminating Accidents

Puppies need to be housetrained to realize that it’s not fine to pee and poop just anywhere. Potty training is a straightforward process, but one that must be executed positively (with no punishment that frightens the puppy) and consistently, following two main rules:

Avoid indoor accidents through confinement and close monitoring, and

Take the puppy outside on a regular schedule and reward him for eliminating where you want him to do his business.

House soiling may happen in any part in your home but sometimes pet parents will observe that their puppy soils more in selected places, like rarely used rooms or on a specific type of surface. Very young pups (under 12 weeks old) don’t have full bladder control and might be unable to hold it very long. Older puppies that’ve had accidents mightn't have been house trained entirely.

Why Pups You Thousht Were Housetrained Misht Have Mishaps Too Young to Be Fully House Trained

Some pups, particularly those under 12 weeks of age, haven’t developed bladder or bowel control yet.

Incomplete Housetraining

A lot of puppies simply haven’t learned where to eliminate or they haven’t learned a means to tell their people when they have to go out. Some pups house soil only under certain conditions. For instance, a puppy may soil when he’s home alone for very long time periods, very first thing in the morning, at some point during the night, only when you’re not watching or only in occasionally used rooms. Other pups may pee or poop whenever they feel the necessity to go.

Breakdown in Housetraining

At times pups who seem to be house trained at some point regress and start off soiling in the house again.

Some Other Reasons Your Puppy Misht House Soil Urine Marking

If your pup is over three months of age and pees small amounts on vertical surfaces, he could be urine marking. Young dogs doing this behavior often elevate their hind legs when peeing.

Separation Anxiety

If your pup only soils when he’s left alone at home, even for short time frames, he may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, you may observe that he appears anxious or upset right before you leave him by himself.

Submissive/Excitement Urination

Your pup may have a submissive/excitement urination predicament if he only urinates during greetings, play, and physical contact. If this is the case, you may observe your pup displaying submissive postures during interactions. He may flinch or cower, roll over on his belly, tuck or lower his tail, duck his head, avert his eyes, flatten his ears or all of the above.

Medical Reasons for House Soiling

It’s usually a good idea to visit your puppy’s vet to exclude medical causes for house soiling. Some widespread medical reasons for inappropriate urination and defecation are:

Urinary Tract Infection (UTI)

Pups with UTI usually pee frequently and in small amounts. They may additionally lick their genital areas more than usual.

Intestinal Upset

If your pup was house trained but now defecates loose stools or diarrhea at home, he may have intestinal upset.

Change in Diet

If you’ve recently modified the quantity or kind of food you give your puppy, he may develop a house soiling issue. Often, following a diet change, a pup will defecate loose stools or diarrhea. He may need to poop more frequently or on a different schedule than before the diet change.

Methods to Housetrain Your Puyyy

Housetraining is achieved by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go and by stopping him from peeing or pooping in inappropriate places. You need to keep crating and confinement to a minimum; however, some amount of limitation is generally essential for your pup to learn to “hold it.”

House Trainins Steps

Maintain your pup on a constant daily feeding schedule and take off food between meals.

Take the puppy outside on a regular timetable.

In between these outings, know where your dog is at all times. You have to watch for early signs that he needs to pee and/or poop so that you can anticipate and stop accidents from happening

If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be restricted to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a kiddy gate. Otherwise, you can tether him to you by a leash that doesn't give him much freedom around you. Progressively, over days or weeks, give your pup more freedom; you start with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and little by little increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home.

Go along with your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk.

If you catch your pup in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, sufficient to startle but not frighten him. When startled, the dog should stop in mid-stream. Promptly run with him outside, motivating him to come with you the whole way. Allow your pet to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat.

Additional Housetraining Tips

Clean mishaps with an enzymatic cleanser to reduce odors that might entice the pup back to the same spot.

Once your dog is housetrained in your home, he may still have accidents when you have visitors. That’s because young dogs have to generalize their learning to new surroundings. Just because they appear to know something in one spot doesn't mean that they’ll automatically understand that thing everywhere. You’ll need to monitor your pup carefully when you visit new places together and be sure to take him out often.

What NOT to Do

Don't rub your pup's nose in his waste.

Don't reprimand your pet for eliminating indoors. Rather, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to surprise him and stop him from peeing or pooping. Then immediately show your puppy where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he finish his business, and then praising him.

Don't physically punish your pup for accidents. Understand that if your pup has accidents in the house, you neglected to properly supervise him.

Don't clean with ammonia-based products. Urine contains ammonia. Cleaning up with ammonia can attract your puppy back to the same spot to pee again.